I’ve always found the rallying cry of Game of Thrones’ House of Stark somewhat overly dramatic, but this year is different. Winter is coming, and it’s the winter we’ve all been waiting for.
I am so fortunate to have spent many years chasing snow – both as a Winter Olympian and now as a recreational skier still searching for perfect arcs and chest deep powder – I’ve learned it pays to have a battle plan. This season in particular procrastinators won’t get powder days, brave early bookers will.
I love that different months of the year entice different types of people to the slopes. It begins in early December with the top trumpers – those so keen to get on skis that they flock to the snow in high-altitude resorts. I’ll be starting in Hintertux, Austria, running adult performance camps on its glacier, before the festivities kick off. I have always skied at Christmas. I can’t remember a time where I couldn’t look outside and not see snow as presents are placed under the tree – it’s magical.
By the time January rolls in the snow is almost guaranteed – resorts have a healthy base and off-piste powder days are more frequent. A popular time for long weekends, it is also quiet and a great time to travel with my pre-schoolers. With the slopes being less busy and the snow hard packed and grippy both my sons, Locki and Cooper, have had their happiest times on snow in the first weeks of the year.
February can be carnage. In fact we are expecting the Winter Olympics (starting February 4 2022) to inspire a lot of people to book a last-minute winter holiday, so look for a hidden gem. You don’t have to stray too far off the beaten path – just be inventive. For example, instead of Val d’Isère, stop at lesser-known Sainte Foy, where there’s plenty of fun terrain.
I love spring skiing. March can be epic, with huge overnight powder and ample sunny days. The mixed conditions adds spice to a ski trip – you could find yourself changing rental skis, from piste carvers, to fat powder planks, to touring equipment, on a daily basis.
I also always recommend that first timers and parents with young children start late in the season – no one wants to be cold when they learn. This year Easter is particularly late, great news for those committed to travelling during school holidays.
Heading into April, long lunches are prime as the days get longer and the seasonaires start letting their hair down. One of my favourite rituals is sunbathing on a high-altitude terrace, with an Aperol Spritz in hand, after a morning shredding up the pistes. It won’t be long now, cheers to the best ski season ever.
By Chemmy Alcott
Why ski in each month
December
A ski holiday in December is full of festive cheer and first-to-the-slopes bragging – aim high for a snow sure start to the season.
January
Quiet pistes, plentiful powder days and low-season prices – there’s no better way to start the new year than on the slopes.
February
Avoid the half-term carnage by heading off the beaten track during the busiest month of the season, when the slopes are primed and resorts are buzzing.
March
As the days get longer, holidaymakers can revel in warmer temperatures and bluebird skies – ideal for learning the ropes or spending long lunches on a sun-filled terrace.
April
The end of the season is cause for celebration, with the Easter holidays, lively festivals and revved-upped après-ski making April one of the most exciting times to head to hit the slopes.
The best budget ski holidays
Les Arcs, France
When to go: December
Self-drive trips save a fortune on airfares and high-altitude Les Arcs is a great bet for an affordable pre-Christmas week. Erna Low (020 7584 2841; ernalow.co.uk) offers self catering at residence Le Roc Belle Face from £405, based on four sharing a one-bedroom apartment, including Eurotunnel crossing. Departs December 18, 2021.
Les Arcs is a great bet for an affordable pre-Christmas week
Credit: Getty
Passo Tonale, Italy
When to go: January
Laid-back Passo Tonale is in the Adamello ski area and is one of the best-value resorts in Italy, with prices at their lowest in January. Crystal Ski (020 8610 3123; crystalski.co.uk) offers the three-star Hotel Eden – a five-minute walk to the ski lift – from £489. Departs January 8, 2022.
La Plagne Soleil, France
When to go: February
You can still enjoy the giant Paradiski area without breaking the bank if you travel late in February and opt for self catering. Travelski Express (0800 260 5082; uk.travelski.com) offers a stay at Skissim Select: Résidence Le Cervin, an apartment complex near the lifts in Plagne Soleil, from £579, including train fares, transfers and lift pass, based on five sharing a two-bedroom apartment. Departs February 26, 2022.
Plagne Centre, Plagne Soleil and Plagne Village are parts of the world’s second largest linked ski area called Paradiski
Credit: Getty
Soldeu, Andorra
When to go: March
Andorra is famous for offering good-value accommodation – but that doesn’t mean compromise in the Grandvalira ski area, linking Soldeu and Pas de la Casa. There is more than 200km of slopes and glorious sunshine in March. Inghams (01483 319513; inghams.co.uk) offers self-catering Residence Andorra Apartments from £489, based on four sharing a one-bedroom apartment. Departs March 20, 2020.
Orelle Val Thorens, France
When to go: April
A newly-opened ski lift to Cime Caron has speeded up connections between the satellite village of Orelle to neighbouring town of Val Thorens. This makes it a great base for a late season, snow-sure break. Peak Retreats (02392 839310; peakretreats.co.uk) offers self-catering stays at Residence Orelle 3 Vallées from £169, based on an apartment for four people, including Eurotunnel crossing with Flexiplus upgrade. Departs April 2, 2022.
Val Thorens viewed from Cime Caron peak
Credit: Getty
The best luxury ski holidays
Vail, USA
When to go: December
Vail is one of the premier resorts in Colorado’s Rockies, with immaculately prepared pistes (open from November 12) and some of the world’s most indulgent hotels. American Ski Classics (020 8607 9988; americanskiclassics.com) offers a stay at the Sebastian, at the heart of the resort, from £4,325, room only. Departs December 22, 2021.
Andermatt, Switzerland
When to go: January
Recent huge investment has propelled Andermatt from a pretty Swiss village into the top league of luxury resorts. Prices are less sky-high in January when, though chilly, the snow is at its best. Scott Dunn (020 8682 5020; scottdunn.com) offers the five-star Chedi Andermatt, with its own private ice rink, from £2,840 B&B. Departs January 14, 2022.
Andermatt has become one of the top luxury resorts
Credit: Getty
Méribel, France
When to go: February
Avoid the half-term rush by booking an early-February week. That way you can have some of the best slopes of Les Trois Vallées ski area all to yourself. Ski Solutions (020 7471 7761; skisolutions.com) offers stays at Hotel Le Coucou, a new super-stylish, quiet, out-of-resort bolthole, from £3,310, room only. Departs February 5, 2022.
Courchevel, France
When to go: March
For some, Courchevel is more about posing than skiing and March sunshine can provide a perfect opportunity. It is certainly a resort that knows how to do luxury: the pistes are groomed to perfection and you’ll be spoiled with Les Trois Vallées on your doorstep. Elegant Resorts (01244 897581; elegantresorts.co.uk) offers the five-star Aman Le Melezin from £3,945. Departs March 12, 2022.
Courchevel is more about posing than skiing and the pistes are groomed to perfection
Credit: Getty
Lech, Austria
When to go: April
Chic and stylish, Lech is one of Austria’s loveliest villages and home to some of its most indulgent hotels. Although sitting at a modest altitude, it is a safe bet, with big dumps of snow throughout the season and links to Zurs and St Anton. Ski Solutions (020 7471 7761; skisolutions.com) offers the five-star Hotel Post Lech Arlberg, with large swimming pool and spa, from £3,935, room only. Departs April 3, 2022.
The best ski holidays for experts
Mayrhofen, Austria
When to go: December
Like it steep and deep? Mayrhofen has Austria’s steepest descent – the black Harakiri run – as well as access to the Hintertux glacier for guaranteed early snow. Sno (020 7770 6888; sno.co.uk) offers stays in the Elisabeth Hotel, an adult-only property with a superb spa, from £1,078. Departs December 13, 2021.
Mayrhofen has Austria’s steepest descent – the black Harakiri run
Credit: Getty
Jackson Hole, USA
When to go: January
With its extensive back country and legendary Corbet’s Couloir, Jackson Hole in Wyoming is famous for its challenging and spine-tingling off-piste runs, with prime powder conditions in January. With direct flights from the UK starting in January, Ski Safari (01273 977751; skisafari.com) offers the four-star Wort Hotel, the resort’s iconic red-brick inn, from £1,845 B&B, with complimentary upgrade. Departs January 8, 2022.
Revelstoke, Canada
When to go: February
Take the opportunity to escape the crowded Alps and head to Revelstoke, the only resort that offers cat-skiing, heli-skiing and backcountry skiing as well as a traditional pisted area all from one village base. Frontier Ski (020 8776 8709; frontier-ski.co.uk) offers the Sandman Hotel from £4,979, including a four-night Selkirk Tangiers heli-ski package, full board, equipment and guiding. Departs February 9, 2022.
Revelstoke is the only resort that offers cat-skiing, heli-skiing and backcountry skiing as well as a traditional pisted area all from one village base
Credit: Getty
Hokkaido, Japan
When to go: March
Japanese resorts enjoy wonderful powder snow and, with an average of 14m of snowfall a year. Niseko ski resort in Hokkaido gets some of the best, with huge dumps falling all season long. Inside Japan Tours (0117 244 3380; insidejapantours.com) offers an eight-night Niseko Winter Sports tour, including a five-day lift pass with night skiing, from £2,683 B&B. Departs on select dates in March 2022.
Chamonix, France
When to go: April
Chamonix has a decent pisted area, but it is the huge off-piste terrain that fires up adrenalin-junkies who want to squeeze out the last moments of late-season excitement. British Airways Holidays (0344 493 0787; britishairways.com) offers the four-star Hotel Le Morgane, near the Aiguille du Midi lift, from £603 room only. Excludes transfers. Departs April 2, 2022.
Chamonix has a huge off-piste terrain that fires up adrenalin-junkies
Credit: Getty
The best ski holidays for intermediates
La Rosière, France
When to go: December
What could be better than skiing over to La Thuile in Italy for lunch and then cruising back to La Rosière in France for dinner? These two linked resorts offer wonderfully scenic runs and good early-season snow. Club Med (03453 676767; clubmed.co.uk) offers stays at Club Med La Rosière from £2,082, all inclusive, with lift passes and lessons, based on a family of four sharing. Departs December 19, 2021.
Megève, France
When to go: January
Spread over three mountains, Megève has plenty to keep intermediates happy, but the resort’s comparatively low slopes can make it risky too early in the season, so opt for January instead. Peak Retreats (02392 839310; peakretreats.co.uk) offers self-catering Portes de Megève apartments from £538, based on two people sharing a one-bedroom apartment, including Eurotunnel crossing with Flexiplus upgrade. Departs January 8, 2022.
Megève has plenty to keep intermediates happy, but it’s best to visit in January
Credit: Getty
Crans Montana, Switzerland
When to go: February
February is still cold enough to keep the sunny south-facing slopes of Crans-Montana nice and crisp – intermediates can gain confidence here. Momentum Ski (020 7371 9111; momentumski.com) offers Hotel Olympic, with a traditional Swiss restaurant on-site, from £895 B&B. Departs February 3, 2022.
Sölden, Austria
When to go: March
Lots of efficiently-linked pistes make up the cruising terrain in Solden and most of it is above 2,000m, so snow conditions remain excellent until the end of the season. Inghams (01483 319450; inghams.co.uk) offers stays at Hotel Solderhof & Residenz Tamara, close to the resort centre, from £1,099. Departs March 26, 2022.
Snow conditions remain excellent in Sölden until the end of the season
Credit: Getty
Avoriaz, France
When to go: April
At a reliably snowy 1,800m, Avoriaz is at the heart of the Portes du Soleil in the Alps, which offers a huge range of runs and touring routes across a string of smaller French and Swiss resorts. Ski Independence (0131 243 8097; ski-i.com) offers stays at Residence L’Amara from £1,511 – self-catering and based on a two-bedroom apartment sleeping four. Departs April 2, 2022.
The best ski holidays for beginners
Vallandry, France
When to go: December
In the forests below Les Arcs, Vallandry offers a beginners’ park plus easy access to the wider ski area once your confidence improves. Ski Olympic (01302 328820; skiolympic.com) offers Chalet la Foret, a ski-in/ski-out base, from £1,595. Departs December 26, 2021.
Vallandry offers a beginners’ park plus easy access to the wider ski area once your confidence improves
Credit: Getty
El Tarter, Andorra
When to go: January
With easy access to the slopes and plenty of wide, gentle green runs, plus a highly-rated English-speaking ski school, El Tarter in January ticks all the boxes for beginners. Neilson (0333 014 3351; neilson.co.uk) offers stays at the Chalet Hotel Casale, a 19-room barn conversion, from £735. Departs January 2, 2022.
Morzine, France
When to go: February
Morzine’s main area of green slopes is served by a slow-moving, beginner-friendly “magic carpet” conveyor belt. The resort is quick to get to from Geneva, but it is low, so come in February. Crystal Ski (crystalski.co.uk) offers Hotel Igloo, five minutes’ walk to the ski school, from £918 B&B. Departs February 26, 2022.
Morzine’s main area of green slopes is ideal for beginners and the town is charming
Credit: Morzine Tourism
Flaine, France
When to go: March
With free lifts for beginners and nursery slopes situated next to purpose-built accommodation, Flaine is a great choice for those first, nervy turns. Erna Low (020 7584 2841; ernalow.co.uk) offers self catering at Le Centaure, from £566 based on two sharing a one-bedroom apartment, including Eurotunnel crossing. Departs March 12, 2022.
Cervinia, Italy
When to go: April
Snow-sure, resort-level green pistes make Cervinia a great choice for novices, with plenty of longer runs above Plan Maison for quick learners to progress to. Ski Line (020 8313 3999; skiline.co.uk) offers stays at Breuil Hotel, beside the nursery slopes, from £1,523. Departs April 3 2022.
Snow-sure, resort-level green pistes make Cervinia a great choice for novices
Credit: Getty
The best chalet ski holidays
St Anton, Austria
When to go: December
At the beginning of the season you need a snowsure resort and St Anton not only offers this but is also famous for its Christmassy atmosphere – great for partying groups filling a chalet. Skiworld (0330 102 8004; skiworld.co.uk) offers Chalet Rendl, sleeping eight people, from £869. Departs December 20, 2021.
La Tania, France
When to go: January
La Tania – in the pine forest at the foot of the Courchevel ski area – is one of the prettiest, quietest resorts in Les Trois Vallées and has some excellent chalet accommodation for groups wanting an off-peak break. Le Ski (01484 548996; leski.com) offers Chalet Petit Marmau, sleeping four, from £1,220. Departs January 9 and 16, 2022.
La Tania is one of the prettiest, quietest resorts in Les Trois Vallées and has some excellent chalet accommodation for groups
Credit: Getty
Selva, Italy
When to go: February
Sëlva sums up all that is civilised about skiing in Italy: lots of cruising pistes, a good sunshine record and charming chalets. But most slopes are between 1,500m and 2,000m (4,900ft and 6,500ft) so you need to come in February for optimal conditions. Ski Total by Inghams (01483 319653; inghams.co.uk) offers stays at Chalet Soldanella from £1,208. Departs February 26, 2022.
Baqueira Beret, Spain
When to go: March
Spain might not be the first place you’d look for chalet accommodation, but you can find great options in Baqueira, a resort up at 1,800m in the Val d’Aran in the northern Pyrenees – where skiing and sunbathing collide. Ski Miquel (01457 821200; skimiquel.co.uk) has the 11-room Chalet Salana from £637. Departs March 20, 2022.
Baqueira is located 1,800m in the Val d’Aran in the northern Pyrenees
Credit: Getty
Val d’Isère, France
When to go: April
Val d’Isère has arguably the best late-season snow in the Alps, access to a huge ski area and an excellent choice of chalets. Ski Beat (01273 855100; skibeat.co.uk) offers stays at Chalet Cristal 2, sleeping nine, from £1,279. Departs April 9, 2022.
The best ski holidays for families
Tignes, France
When to go: December
Some schools break up just in time for families to snatch pre-Christmas week. It may be chilly but it’s also quiet and snow-sure Tignes has pistes to suit all abilities. Mark Warner (0344 273 6793; markwarner.co.uk) offers the slope-side Chalet Hotel Aiguille Percée, with on-site childcare, from £724. Departs December 12, 2021.
Tignes has pistes to suit all abilities
Credit: Getty
Champoluc, Italy
When to go: January
Families with pre-schoolers can enjoy the quiet slopes in beginner-friendly Champoluc, part of the vast Monterosa ski area. Family operators offer some of their best prices this month too. Esprit Ski (01483 944516; espritski.com) offers Chalet Hotel De Champoluc, which includes a nanny service and children’s clubs, from £984. Departs January 23, 2022.
Whistler, Canada
When to go: February
There are no half-term holidays in Canada, so if you don’t mind the longer flight, it is a great way to avoid the crush and peak prices of Europe. Crystal Ski (020 8610 3123; crystalski.co.uk) offers stays at the Listel Hotel, a family-friendly three star in Whistler, from £1,139, room only. Departs February 12, 2022.
With no half-term holiday in Canada, a ski holiday there is a great way to avoid the peak prices of Europe
Credit: Getty
Puy St Vincent, France
When to go: March
Booking with a family-focused operator is a good way to introduce children to fun in the snow. Snowbizz (01778 341455; snowbizz.co.uk) offers self-catering apartments at Sun Vallée in Puy-Saint-Vincent, adjacent to its nursery and ski school, from £629. Departs March 13, 2022.
Trysil, Norway
When to go: April
Warmer temperatures make April the best time to visit Trysil – Norway’s biggest ski area – plus there’s a chance of seeing the northern lights. Ski Norway (0207 199 6015; ski-scandinavia.co.uk) offers stays at the Radisson Blu Mountain Resort & Residences in Trysil, with complimentary childcare, from £1,438 B&B. Departing April 3, 2022.
Warmer temperatures make April the best time to visit Trysil
Credit: Getty
The best ski holidays for non-skiers
Jukkasjarvi, Sweden
When to go: December
Sign off 2021 with a stay at Sweden’s Icehotel in Jukkasjarvi, with husky-sledding and snowmobiling – and a good chance of seeing the northern lights. Discover the World (01737 214250; discover-the-world.com) offers a four-night break from £1,367 B&B, including one night in an ice suite at the Icehotel and a gala dinner. Departs December 29, 2021.
Quebec, Canada
When to go: January
It doesn’t get much snowier than the icy wilderness of north-eastern Canada in January. From a remote lodge at Pourvoirie Cap au Leste, you can enjoy a week of snowshoeing, snowmobiling and dogsledding. KE Adventure Travel (01768 773966; keadventure.com) offers a Quebec Winter Adventure from £2,145 including most meals. Departs January 15, 22 and 29, 2022.
The Quebec Winter Adventure includes a trip to the city
Credit: Moment RF
High Tatras, Slovakia
When to go: February
Peak-season skiing is expensive and busy, so instead opt for night sledging, snowshoeing and ice skating – some of the highlights of a week in the traditional Slovakian mountain village of Tatranska Lomnica. Explore (01252 240 506; explore.co.uk) offers a Slovakia Winter Adventure from £1,561 B&B. Departs February 13 and 27, 2022.
Hindsæter, Norway
When to go: March
Temperatures are edging up in March, making it ideal for some serious hiking through the mountainous region of Hindsæter, with spectacular trails through frozen ice canyons. Inntravel (inntravel.co.uk) offers stays at the three-star Hindseter Hotel from £1,345 full board. Departs March 6, 2022.
It’s possible to extend your break in Norway with extra nights in Oslo
Credit: Moment RF
Oulanka National Park, Finland
When to go: April
By April, the choice of snow-based tours in Europe is limited, but Oulanka National Park, a vast rugged wilderness straddling Finland’s border with Russia, still offers a range of activities, including dog-sledding and ice climbing. Exodus Travels (020 3553 1643; exodus.co.uk) offers stays at Basecamp Oulanka from £1,799, including most meals. Departs April 3, 10 and 17, 2022.
The details
Prices are per person based on a seven-night stay including half board, flights and transfers, unless stated otherwise, and are subject to availability. For families, prices are per person, based on a family of four. All holidays listed are packages with tour operators and have better legal protection than accommodation booked independently if the pandemic proves a problem in winter. All countries listed are currently open to vaccinated British travellers travelling with unvaccinated children.
For more inspiration, read Telegraph Travel’s complete guide to the best hotels in Canada