Foraging The Flavors Of New York’s Hudson Valley At Troutbeck

Amenia, New York is a quiet town of around 4,000 residents, situated less than a 2-hour drive north of NYC. It might as well be a world away. For city folks eyeing an ideal urban retreat, this Hudson Valley hideaway holds the ticket in the form of Troutbeck. Once a private estate, the stone-clad luxury hotel is a veritable fortress of solitude, anchoring a 250-acre property and preserve.

Entering the lobby makes it abundantly clear that this is much more than your typical country inn. Throughout its 200 year history, this homestead played host to legendary artists including Henry David Thoreau, Ralph Waldo Emerson and the naturalist, John Burroughs. Today these same walls source strength from that creative past, celebrating local artists and serving as an ongoing gallery for their work.

But the creativity doesn’t stop with the visual offerings. Troutbeck is a resort committed to artistry for all senses. Case in point: the kitchen and bar, helmed by executive chef Gabe McMackin. The property plucked the esteemed talent out of Manhattan and he’s settled into his new home with aplomb. The tasting menus here lean heavy into local produce from the bounty of farms dotting the surrounding area.

Still, that sort of mindfulness is pretty much expected from any high end dining destination these days. A meal from McMackin makes it clear that something far more personal is at play…An artistic expression of the chef, himself. For a better sense of how he brings his vision to life, Forbes sat down with McMackin for a little Q+A. The following has been edited for length and clarity.

Describe the concept behind your menu at Troutbeck.

The most direct way to say it is that we make Seasonal American Food. It’s a little fine dining, it’s a little casual, it’s rooted in American traditions but we are very aware of global traditions and techniques as well. We think that what’s in season, what’s fresh and bright – and ideally raised nearby by our friends – is the most exciting thing to put on a plate.

Where do you draw inspiration for the items?

Troutbeck’s history is endlessly inspiring, but our goal with the menu is to root diners precisely in the present moment. So much of what we do starts with what we can get – what do the farmers we work with have that they’re excited about?

We take that energy and run with it. We look to the world around us for inspiration. We look at Troutbeck itself! The house is a huge inspiration – dining here is so much about BEING here, and it’s the same with cooking. We have to be connected to this space in order for the food to make sense in it. It’s colors, it’s the weather, it’s everything from art to politics that make us feel a certain way that comes together in a dish or a meal. 

Is there a signature item or items at the menu at this point of the season? 

There are a few dishes on the menu right now that I’ve brought with me from The Finch. They come and go, but things like the Yams with Meyer Lemon Mayonnaise, Licorice and Shiso or the Swiss Chard Lasagna are so delicious and fun to eat it’s hard to keep them off for too long. Our Trout Toast is classic Troutbeck in that we source its central ingredient—the trout—from Hudson Valley Fisheries; a local producer we trust and admire in Hudson, NY. The other elements change depending on the seasons. It epitomizes of my style of cooking and plating…and of course “trout” is in the name! 

How does the property and the sense of place inform your menu development? 

It’s everything. There are so many ways people can enjoy being at Troutbeck, and we try to make exciting food to match. Whether it’s a picnic lunch by the river or a 7 course menu for a small wedding, we think about the ways our guests use each of our spaces. The food we make for parties outside at the Pole Barn usually come off of our incredible wood grill. It’s wonderful to use the fire at Troutbeck, to be outside on the meadow, to cook with friends. Being in our kitchen is special, but being outside with our team cooking under the stars is just fantastic.

Describe briefly your history in the culinary space? What brought you to Troutbeck? Where were you directly before?

I’ve been involved with food for almost 30 years. I got the bug for the industry washing dishes at a restaurant when I was young, and have been trying to find a way to balance the love of hospitality, the dance of cooking, the pleasure of being a guest, the pleasure of being a host with life outside of the business. It’s a delicate and challenging thing to do. I’ve gotten to be a part of some incredible places and learned from incredible people in out of restaurants. These experiences have helped form what I think of hospitality and how best to share it. Whether it was my time cooking when I was young in Saratoga, working at Blue Hill at Stone Barns in its first few years, as the corporate chef for Martha Stewart, being part of an incredibly powerful team at Gramercy Tavern, or helping figure out what it should feel like to have dinner at Roberta’s – all the incredible experiences I’ve had come together to make what we do at Troutbeck special.

What are some of the most unique aspects of working at this particular property? 

Troutbeck’s history is as a home for forward thinkers, artists and naturalists and that makes it the perfect place to create in the present, to forage, to challenge ourselves to build a healthy work environment based on positive energy, respect for others and love of what we do. 

What are some of the most unique aspects of dining at your restaurant? 

The space! There’s nothing like being in this house. Troutbeck was a home before it was a hotel, and we still consider it as such. It’s central to our hospitality credo.

What is the best thing you’ve heard someone say about their experience at your restaurant, that really stuck with you?

I got to cook for my father last night, and he said it was the best meal he’s ever had. Feels pretty good. A former chef and mentor had some very thoughtful words about the experience of eating here. To be able to capture his attention that way, to reflect what he’s taught me and add my own voice in a way he really responds feels great. A recent note from a mother of the bride saying her new son-in-law found the chocolate cake was the best he’d ever had. The team works hard. Getting feedback like that feels extremely good. But any time we get to hear someone’s feedback, it means a lot. We get to see the experience through someone else’s eyes.

There seems to be a strong thread of visual art running through the property, does this environment affect the way you approach the food on site? 

Visual art absolutely affects the food. We want the food we make to feel great in the dining room, in the gallery, in our public spaces. So much of those spaces are affected by the art that we show. It’s wonderful to see the dining room energy change with what’s exhibited on the walls.