Accessing Europe’s great cultural hubs has become more difficult during the pandemic, but fortunately we have our own right here to explore
Cambridge is a semi-paradise of parks and parapets, poetry and punts. While wandering among the streets, colleges and river paths of Cambridge, the imagination easily conjures its famous alumni like Newton and Darwin, Wordsworth and Plath. Magnificent buildings can be glimpsed round every corner, equivalent to a dozen stately homes. Yet visitors are never more than a five-minute walk from the city’s green spaces, some of which are grazed by gentle red poll cattle.
It is also a city of extraordinary innovation and cultural diversity. Just a 10-minute walk away from the old colleges across Parker’s Piece (where the modern rules of football crystallised) brings you to vibrant Mill Road lined with independent cafés, delis, ethnically diverse restaurants and music venues. The Cambridge food scene has been exploding, and its musical and theatrical life is far more vibrant than in other cities of 125,000 residents. This beautiful compact city never fails to surprise and reward.
48 hours in . . . Cambridge
Day one
MORNING
Unless you are a contrarian who might skip a visit to the Colosseum when in Rome, you will be drawn first to the university’s crowning glory. The late Gothic towers of King’s College Chapel create the iconic image of Cambridge (King’s Parade; 01223 331100). When Henry VI had the cathedral-sized chapel built, he wanted to keep the decoration simple in order to glorify God. By the time it was finished under Henry VIII, the glorious fan-vaulted ceiling, as delicate as lace, had been constructed, and the magnificent stained glass and rose motifs added as Tudor propaganda. An extra attraction is the pair of resident peregrine falcons occasionally spotted on the finials.
Directly across King’s Parade, follow a lane to two antiquarian bookshops, including G David Bookseller (16 St Edward’s Passage, 01223 354619), a Cambridge institution hidden away on the edge of the bustling market square. In recent years many of the traditional traders in market square have given way to food stalls. For lunch choose noodles or falafels or something more exotic like Venezuelan griddled arepas or Nigerian jollof rice, spicy goat and plantain. On weekends you can eat hawker-centre style at picnic tables. If the weather is against you, try the buzzing sit-in Sicilian bakery-café Aromi along Peas Hill just off the market square.
AFTERNOON
Proceed to Trinity Street and pass two of the university’s A-list colleges, Trinity and St John’s, to arrive at the architecturally rare Round Church built in 1130. Turning left, you cross a bridge over the River Cam (hence ‘Cam-bridge’) and within a few minutes, reach Kettle’s Yard, a unique museum-cum-gallery. Just behind the cutting-edge modern art gallery is a treasure. The gracious and understated home of art curator Jim Ede and his wife has been preserved as though they just stepped out for a pint of milk. Paintings and pieces by Ben Nicholson, Henri Gaudier-Brzeska and the Cornish fisherman Alfred Wallis are artfully arranged among furniture and objets trouvés to create a haven of harmony.
On the other side of Castle Street, a mound is all that remains of William the Conqueror’s castle. Climb the steps to obtain an impressive view over the rooftops, college spires and the 1930s tower of the UL (University Library) built in “rationalist-fascist” style.
LATE
For a panoramic view in more glamorous surroundings, stroll back over the river to the roof terrace of the Varsity Hotel (Thompson’s Lane; 01223 306030). The roofscape view is taxed in the price of the drinks but it is worth it on a fine evening.
Head back to the centre to dine at Trinity (15 Trinity Street; 01223 322130) where the sleek interior complements the sophisticated menu. Inventive fish dishes predominate, served by staff who don’t put on airs.
Day two
MORNING
A plate of buttermilk pancakes and bracing shot of caffeine from the local roastery Hot Numbers (4 Trumpington Street; 01223 751266) will set you up nicely for crossing the road to marvel at the Titians, Impressionists and the rest of the nationally important art collection in the Fitzwilliam Museum (Trumpington Street; 01223 332900).
Ten minutes away on foot, the landscaped Botanic Garden appears (1 Brookside; 01223 336265), where a tranquil hour or two can be spent among the mature and exotic trees, fragrant borders and a duck-enhanced water garden. If it’s picnic weather, you might have pre-ordered a picnic box from the Garden Kitchen (01223 763425). Or you could turn back towards town for lunch in a historic pub. The Eagle (8 Bene’t Street; 01223 505020) was frequented by Crick and Watson who startled the other drinkers one day in 1953 when they announced they had worked out the double helix of DNA. (Only in Cambridge would a pub’s fame derive from molecular biologists shouting about their breakthrough.)
Credit:
Allan Baxter
AFTERNOON
Across the road is the oldest building in Cambridge, St Bene’t’s Church with a Saxon tower. Back on the corner of Trumpington Street, the Chronophage – a monstrous time-eating grasshopper, both clock and work of art – mesmerises all who pass. If you fancy an outré flavour of ice cream, a few doors along at 6 Bene’t Street is Jack’s Gelato.
The time has come to indulge in the quintessential Cambridge relaxation. Make your way to the bustling Mill Pond punt station to negotiate a punt trip with Scudamore’s (01223 359750). Punt chauffeurs make it look effortless as they pole these flat-bottomed craft, which were so useful on the pre-drained fens for catching eels and cutting reeds. Enjoy the wind in the willows, and get a moorhen’s eye view of gracefully arched bridges along the Backs, as the river winds through otherwise private college grounds.
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Alamy
LATE
Head back to the centre for high-end tapas at Mercado Central (24 Green Street; 01223 502392). A not over-sweetened sangria will slip down handily as you choose between boquerones and jamon croquetas, Galician octopus and Navarra chorizo. The short list of desserts is just as irresistible; the Pedro Ximenez ice cream is remarkable for its concentrated taste of sherry.
If you’re lucky, a show will be playing at the Town & Gown Pub & Theatre around the corner (8 Market Passage; 01223 309796). Bravely launched in September 2020 in a once beloved cinema, the building features a 100-seater fringe theatre-cum-performance space and a glam dining mezzanine with baby grand. If nothing on its diverse programme of comedy, theatre and music coincides with your visit, you can simply enjoy a late night drink. When you leave, pause to chuckle at the 19th century ‘Ode to Tobacco’ on a wall around the corner on the corner of Rose Crescent.
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Alamy
Where to stay . . .
Luxury Living
Not that long ago, the Gonville Hotel underwent a succesful refurbishment by an energetic management with an appetite for excellence lifting this city-centre hotel from ordinary to boutique. The hotel is located near the southern corner of Parker’s Piece, a 25-acre open common, named after a Trinity College cook who farmed it in the 17th century. Virtual concierge services are provided through iPads installed in every room. The hotel’s Bentley S1 is used as a courtesy car for special occasions.
From £155 per night (Gonville Place; 01223 366611)
Boutique Beauty
Sayle House is the very essence of an English b&b, located in an Edwardian family house on an elegant suburban crescent with graciously appointed rooms, a large garden full of wisteria and lavender, and a beaming welcome from the owners who are unstinting in their hospitality.
Rooms from £150 per night (38 Chesterton Hall Cres; 01223 969332)
Budget Bolthole
5 Chapel Street is situated on a very quiet street in the ancient parish of Chesterton, immediately north of the River Cam. This small Georgian townhouse with a cottagey feeling creates the atmosphere of a country b&b, while still being within walking distance of central Cambridge. The owner’s love of craft fairs and flea markets is evident, and her baking is legendary.
Rooms from £105 per night (5 Chapel Street, CB4 1DY;
01123 514856)
What to bring home . . .
The century-old Fitzbillies bakery and café is famed for its gorgeously sticky Chelsea buns (52 Trumpington Street or 36 Bridge Street).
Another long-lived Cambridge institution is Primavera (10 King’s Parade; 01223 357708), a Tardis-like emporium of contemporary British jewellery, ceramics, glass and textiles.
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Getty
When to go . . .
There is a marked contrast between Cambridge in and out of term times. Colleges are more likely to be out-of-bounds during the Michaelmas term (October to early December), Lent (mid-January to early March) and especially the Easter term (April to mid-June) when exams and college balls take place. On the other hand, students bring zest to the town that is missing when the summer coachloads of tourists replace them.
Cambridge is the kind of place that hosts dozens of festivals of music, film and literature. Less high-brow festivals to keep an eye out for are Eat Cambridge food and drink festival in May, Movies on the Meadows in late August and the wonderful Mill Road Winter Fair on the first weekend of December.
Author bio
Susan Griffith has lived in Cambridge for decades, after firmly transferring her allegiance from Oxford. Her annual highlights include the Cambridge Beer Festival (May) and the Mill Road Winter Fair (December). She has finally mastered the art of steering a more-or-less straight course when punting on the Cam.